On a humid day in early June, enthusiastic slurps emanate from the Tea Lab, a bright room tucked into the corner of the Smith Teamaker HQ. Peering in on a trio of tea makers hunched over delicate white cups, the sense of excitement is palpable even outside the Lab’s glass double doors. It is the busiest and most anticipated time of the year–tea season is beginning and two particular lots of Assam have piqued the interest of our tea makers, the first selections of the season. I sat down with Donovan Eilert, Smith Teamaker’s Innovation Lead, to discuss these early selections and the long process from plant to cup.
An Iconic Region
If you’ve ever had breakfast tea, you’ve likely tasted a second flush Assam before. The rich, caramel notes in Assam lend a backbone for other black teas or botanicals (think the spiced and creamy notes of a classic Masala Chai) while also being a near perfect solo drinker. Grown in the lush region of India bordering Bhutan and Bangladesh along the Brahmaputra River, Assam is renowned around the world for tea production. Famous for their second “flush” teas, Assam’s second harvest season is long, ranging May through August, during the peak of monsoon season. Donovan shares that the leaves of the tea plant in Assam can be ready to pick again with just days in between the last crop, meaning the tropical monsoon climate and unpredictable weather patterns lead to unique flavors throughout the season. A handful of sunny days produces a much different tea than a week of full rain, meaning each package of Assam that crosses the lab’s kettles varies widely in flavor, texture and quality. Each harvest being so singular leads to a unique exercise for tea makers–seeing a big picture in a little cup.
The Art of Sourcing for Blends
As harvest unfolds, the focus at Smith Teamakers turns to sourcing, an intricate process of timing, precision and most importantly taste. One of the primary challenges is sourcing Assams that can blend seamlessly, as well as holding their own in a cup. Eilert shares, “Our goal is not just to source a great tea but to source the right tea. One single lot of Assam can’t meet the needs of each blends.
Our teamakers can source up to a hundred lots of Assam during the buying season, and the Tea Lab is always tasting with the blend in mind–from the fruity and bold flavors of Ginger Peach to the malty wake-up call of British Brunch, Assam appears in some of Smith Teamakers beloved blends.
A Living, Breathing Process
The work doesn’t end in the sourcing, however. Last minute tweaks and pivots are crucial to the success of a blend with Eilert likening these to a stage production, “During sourcing, we’re doing all the work to get our lines set and our costume changes down. After that it becomes about keeping the inertia of the season alive and letting the star power of the tea shine.”
As the season unfolds, so too does the story brewing in front of us. With the early-season Assam’s already showing complexity and grace, the teamakers expressed hope for an invigorating tea buying season, sure to culminate in an exceptional cup of tea.